It was
supposed to be a normal field day last Wednesday. And it was, except for some
moments that made it slightly more interesting than usual.
It began with lions. Just as we left the car, roaring arouse from the environs. A closer
look revealed its whereabouts – three big black-maned males were calling from
the other side of the river, having a good overview of their kingdom, displaying
their power. We stood there for a while admiring them through the binoculars, so
mesmerized that we almost didn’t notice a lioness walking towards us. However,
before we could decide whether it’s safer to retrieve to the car she already
disappeared into the bushes, avoiding us smelly humans.
So we started
field work, retrieving cameras and measuring visibility around the experimental
plots. Soon the barking gnu was around, as always, telling us we’re not welcome
on his sacred land and we should damn get out of there. He keeps a safety
distance from us, but insists on his cause. It made me wonder.
When I first
met the gnu I thought he was just upset with us because we took over his lunch
spot, walked over his favourite resting place and invaded his privacy in
general. But usually a gnu would just walk away and find a new place that suits
it. The reason for that particular gnu to stay there, barking at us, had to be more
personal.
And then I
saw it. A skull, bleached and old, yet beautiful. The skull of his beloved, the
one that was taken away from him before they could they could together chase the
warthogs, party with zebras and stare at the full moon, hoof in hoof. So he
stays there with her, with the memories and sorrow, waiting for them to come back and show him the way
to the constellation where she awaits. Anyone else visiting their gardens is
not welcome.
We kindly hurried
up with work and left him and his grief behind.
After
arriving to Mbuzane, I had a fascinating conversation with another researcher.
She was telling me about her work - about rhino defecation habits and extracting
smell from objects like their dung. I learn that the same substances found in
their poo are used in food industry, just in different proportions. In other
words, you can re-create rhino poo smell by using food flavours they use in
production of, for example, Pringles. Good to know.
Still
processing the thought, I see Sporro, the Jack Russell terrier living at
Mbhuzane camp, walking proudly towards us, carrying something in his mouth. Maybe
a dead bird, or a toad? No. He was bringing us a pair of testicles. Our
reaction must have discouraged him as he embarrassingly lowered his head (still
holding his treasure) and left our giggling group, confused by our disapproval
and disappointed by our ungratefulness.
Freshly
impressed by those bizarre moments, I almost forgot how that day had started. But
as the sun went down the three lions started roaring again. Meaning they stayed
at their viewpoint for the whole day.
Either they
were too lazy to move or they couldn’t come to a decision of where to go fetch
the next meal – the hopeless gnu or the juicy carrion around our camp…
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